Histoire, Belle île en mer, île de Bretagne, Bretagne sud, au large du Golfe du MorbihanLors de son escale de 3 mois sur l’Île, Monet a peint 39 tableaux !
©Lors de son escale de 3 mois sur l’Île, Monet a peint 39 tableaux ! |Karine Piquet
CLAUDE MONET

An impressionist master

in Belle-île-en-Mer

In 1886, the 46 year old Claude Monet spent 74 days on Belle-île, from September 12 to November 25. We know how he spent his days thanks to the 75 letters he wrote to his wife, Alice, and his friends Renoir, Caillebotte and Durand-Ruel. This correspondence reveals the artistic struggles, inspirations, and observations Monet experienced on the island’s wild coast. During this stay, he famously captured the dramatic beauty of the Aiguilles de Port Coton, producing works that remain iconic representations of Belle-Île’s rugged seascapes.

Claude Monet (1840-1926)

Pioneer of a Revolutionary Artistic Movement

Claude Monet was a leading figure in the creation of Impressionism, a groundbreaking art movement that emerged in the early 1870s. More than a stylistic school, Impressionism was united by a shared philosophy: rather than capturing the static, enduring qualities of reality, it sought to depict nature’s fleeting, ever-changing moments.

Impressionist techniques involved breaking down and juxtaposing primary colours and their complements, creating shimmering effects of light and “colour vibrations.” This method brought an emotional depth to landscapes and other scenes, reflecting their transient qualities.

By 1886, the original Impressionist group had begun to dissolve, with individual artists pursuing distinct paths. Monet, however, gained increasing recognition during this period. Art dealer Paul Durand-Ruel played a crucial role in championing his work, including efforts to promote it internationally, particularly in the United States.

Breton Escapade

Belle-île, a favoured destination

In 1886, Brittany was in vogue among Impressionist painters, offering an exotic allure while being affordable and conveniently close to Paris. This trend coincided with innovations in painting tools, like collapsible easels and paint tubes (introduced in 1885), enabling artists to work outdoors with ease. Seeking fresh structures, unexpected plays of light, and unique subjects, Monet was likely inspired by Par les champs et les grèves by Gustave Flaubert (published in 1885), a literary ode to Brittany by one of its earliest “tourists.”

Monet initially planned a brief “tour of Brittany,” cane in hand, intending to stay on Belle-Île for only a fortnight before moving on to visit his friend Octave Mirbeau in Noirmoutier. However, what was meant to be a fleeting visit turned into a longer sojourn. In the end, Monet’s journey through Brittany was distilled entirely down to Belle-Île—and, within it, to just one stretch of its wild coastline.

The "Prince of Impressionists"

His day-to-day on Belle-Ile

In early September 1886, Claude Monet arrived in Le Palais but found little there to inspire him artistically. Determined to stay closer to his motifs, he made his way to Kervilahouen, a small hamlet with just ten houses at the time. Despite its modest size, it featured three inns, pilots’ residences, and the Grand Phare lighthouse—the sole nearby site open to visitors. Monet settled at the Marec inn.

His room, on the first floor, overlooked the back of the property and served as the vantage point for his painting Rain. He also had a small space where he stored his canvases.

Life at the inn was far from luxurious. Without heating, Monet struggled to sleep and grew weary of a diet dominated by lobster—so much so that he claimed to be utterly sick of it!

During his stay, Claude Monet wrote daily to Alice Hoschedé, his muse and partner since 1876, with whom he had been living in Giverny for three years. His letters often contained instructions for managing their household, including overseeing the children’s education and maintaining their garden. In return, Alice—married but estranged from her husband and mother to six children—urged Monet to produce enough work to support the family.

On Belle-Île, Monet met Peter Russell, a wealthy Australian heir, married to Marianna, a model for Rodin and a friend of Van Gogh. Russell, delighted to host “The Prince of Impressionists,” invited Monet to dine with him. Monet was pleased to have a change from his monotonous lobster diet but couldn’t resist a wry remark about his host:

“Yet another who has understood nothing of my art but is now completely enraptured.”

Histoire - Patrimoine bâti, Belle île en mer, île de Bretagne, Bretagne sud, au large du Golfe du Morbihan
©Autoportrait de Claude Monet datant de 1886.

I have a devil of a time sleeping, because of the rats above my bed and a pig below my room!

Claude Monet

Beyond these encounters, he is also deeply involved in local life:

I’m going to have my chat with Father Marec and the pilots; it will distract me a little from my worries (…). In this modest debit where I eat, there are admirable faces to be painted.”

This bond also leads him to worry when one stormy day, local fishermen are late in returning…

“the town is in turmoil, we have the greatest of concerns for two barques which left to fish this morning while the weather was fine: three had left and only one was able to return to port. The cries and lamentations of all the wives, sisters, etc…It is heartbreaking […] I am afraid I will attend to a terrible drama “.  He continues  “as I arrived for dinner, the inn was full of dismayed people; 2 fathers of the departed men had returned from their search along the coast and announced that there was no waiting for the men (they had sunk with all hands). I assure you that it was chilling and difficult to hold back tears. Then, all of a sudden, noises and footsteps followed by the six men of the two boats walked in […] Well! It ended with jokes and laughter, and I  was able to have my dinner.”

Monet paints a lot, every single day, regardless of weather.

“I received so much hail that tonight, my face and hands still hurt, and at times I feared that my canvases had been pierced”

In Port Domois, Breton fishermen are surprised to see a man, dressed like them in oilskins and heavy boots, relentlessly painting, despite the wind and sometimes storms!

Histoire - Patrimoine bâti, Belle île en mer, île de Bretagne, Bretagne sud, au large du Golfe du Morbihan
©Autoportrait de Claude Monet datant de 1886.

I feel as though every day I understand her better, the wench… In short, I’m crazy about her.

Claude Monet

Departure from Belle-île

Les Aiguiles de Port Coton enter history

On 21 November, Claude Monet informs Alice that he plans to leave Belle-Île in the coming days and finally head to Noirmoutier, where the Mirbeaus are waiting for him. He would have preferred to cancel this visit:

“…to stay a little longer here […] What a pity to be forced to go to Noirmoutier!”

He departs on a boat with student pilots that travels to Saint-Nazaire every two days. He will never return to Belle-Île.

Very close to Claude Monet, Octave Mirbeau will later write to Rodin:

“I went to spend 8 days with Monet in Belle-île…He did great things: it will be a new strength of his talent. A terrible, formidable Monet.”

Terrible and formidable, like Belle-île-en-Mer.

The Aiguilles de Port Coton

in 3 paintings

A painter trying to tame the Wild Coast with his brushes… Discover 3 of Claude Monet’s great works that forever immortalized the Aiguilles de Port Coton!

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